"Hi michael, saw your very amusing post, and my foh partner, who is from
la, worked with the shoemaker guy both at water grill and providence,
says he’s actually a terrific cook.
"… always one of my fave cook
expressions! in my day they specified the kind of shoe – ‘he makes
ladies shoes’ (froufrou bullshit food), ‘work/construction boots’
(ugly, hamhanded food), etc."
(Here’s his good story on green garlic from yesterday’s NYTimes magazine.)
Cookbooks: People have asked about a new cookbook I mentioned in that post. I and
the usual suspects from the previous books (French Laundry Cookbook, Bouchon) have begun work on
another. The book will focus on family-style cooking, in the style of Ad Hoc,
and great food to cook at home. The book on sous vide cooking, called
Under Pressure, a sous vide manifesto that also comprises a full range of
dishes created by the chefs of the French Laundry and per se, will be
published by Artisan this fall.
At the CIA: A number of people have emailed to ask my opinion on the unrest at The Culinary Institute of America. I don’t have a lot of insight. I do know from a number of faculty that their concerns are genuine and that the President, Tim Ryan, can seem to them coolly corporate and perhaps dismissive of their position. I admire the faculty of the CIA enormously. Also, I like Ryan—he’s smart and has done a lot to advance the school; moreover, he is the man who approved my request to spend nine months at the Culinary to write my book, so I remain beholden to him. I care a lot about this school. I hope he takes the faculty’s concerns seriously and that he can engage in a transparent dialogue to address their concerns and describe his position on their issues.
This’s Elements: While I have my own elements of cooking, more than 900 of them, Hervé This has paired his list down to ten—the ten most important things to know in the kitchen.
Fascinating. (Thanks, Philip Leventhall at Coumbia U Press.) What’s so
great about them is that they’re all so obvious as to be ignored (salt
dissolves in water, for instance, and oil does not) and yet the
ramifications are pervasive.