Does Obesity = Hunger
Hunger related problems now occurring in one of the nation’s capitals of obesity, South Bronx, from Sunday’s NYTimes. Expect more to come if the cheapest food remains the most harmful food available. ()
Cheever Bio Wins NBCC Award
Congrats to my dear friend Blake Bailey, whose
bio of John Cheever, won best bio of 2009 from the National Book Critics Circle on Thursday.
I mentioned this bio when it came out. It’s fabulous, highly recommended. Blake also wrote a bio of Richard Yates, which is every bit as good, if not better. I have no doubt his Charles Jackson bio (
which he talks about on the WSJ blog) will be the same, even if
Jackson is all but forgotten. ()
Michael Symon and I At Jo-Beth Legacy Thurs at 7
Michael Symon and I will be at
Joseph-Beth Booksellers at Legacy Thursday from 7 to 9. He no-doubt wants help flogging
that damned book of his. I’ll be out front selling out of my van. If it’s good enough for Bourdain, it’s good enough for me. ()
Blogging Elements of Cooking: Water
A Fundamental Kitchen Tool

Water is one of the most important ingredients and tools in the kitchen; its influence is everywhere. Paying attention to the properties and effects of water and knowing how to use them, from its boiling point (which, at sea level, is like a built in thermostat set at 212 degrees F.), to its density, to its capacity to evaporate, to its cooling the contents of a pot, is a fundamental part of cooking.
[Update: See Pardus's comment, 11/27, on results of his stock test if you've been following that part of the thread.]
This is an element, as we’ve seen from the previous post, about which whole essays could be written. While previous comments focused on the quality of tap water versus distilled or filtered—one part of water’s role as an ingredient—what interests me most, and why I included it in Elements of Cooking, is its role as a tool.
Water is a cooking tool when you use it to regulate temperature. One of the most common water techniques is the bain marie, or water bath, in which we cook custards or other delicate concoctions that would be hurt by too much heat. When we put a ramekin in a water bath and bake it, that ramekin will stay below 212 degrees thanks to the water.
An ice bath will cool down a pot rapidly and it will stop a green bean from cooking.
Keeping the effects of water in mind will help you sauté better. The browning of food adds flavor to the food. But food won’t brown at low temperatures/when water is present. So if you want a piece of meat to brown, make sure its surface is dry. If you want mushrooms to brown, they have to go into a pan that will brown them before they begin releasing their water. Water is fundamental to life and fundamental to cooking.