Aromats

Aromatics (aromats):  Abbreviated in kitchens as aromats, aromatics refers to aromatic vegetables and herbs, commonly onions, carrots and celery (aka mirepoix), thyme, parsley, bay leaves, garlic and peppercorns, or lemongrass, ginger and scallions in Eastern cuisine.  Aromats may include anything added to a stock or a stew to enhance its flavor (though not everything is aromatic or should be used as an aromat—bell peppers, turnips and zucchini are not aromats).  We associate aromats with sweet and floral flavors, and they’re usually removed from the finished preparation once they’ve imparted their flavors.  Abundant use of aromats makes an enormous difference in the end result and their importance would be difficult to overstate.  Their use is not relegated to stocks and stews; sauté mushrooms in oil in a hot pan, then try sautéing mushrooms in oil in a hot pan to which a few stems of thyme and garlic cloves have been added and you will taste the impact of aromats.

Mirepoix traditionally means two parts onion, one part carrot, and one part celery, roughly chopped, as you see above, in about that ratio (celery is optional; many avoid it on purpose; pay attention to the flavor and make your own call).  This mixture adds sweetness and aroma to a stock or sauce.  (Mirepoix is usually strained out of the stock or sauce it flavors but if it is not, then it is called matignon.)  Thyme, perhaps the best and most elegant and most versatile herb (above left), bay leaf (careful with these, their strength varies), peppercorns (I find that they don’t make a difference unless you crack them with a sauté pan), and on the far right parsley (flat leaf, which has a more delicate flavor than curly).  You can transform food in a wonderful ways using these items.  You can even save that can of hopeless Swanson’s chicken broth given enough them, and that’s saying something (though better to start with water).  Related terms are sachet d’épices and bouquet garni, specific bundles of aromats.  Pay attention to your use of aromats—they can make all the difference.

UPDATE FROM ON HIGH:

What a great conversation and thank you chefs Pardus (the George Bailey of the cooking world) and Del  Grosso.

A few brief general responses to questions:

Fennel is a great aromatic vegetable and works well in fish and vegetable stocks. ... Organic stock may be great, and it’s likely better than non-organic—I haven’t tasted it.  ... For stock, it’s fine to use a carcass that’s been brined.  ...  It’s ok to freeze bones for later use in stock.  ...  Roasting bones and vegetables creates more complex flavors; fish is so delicate, their bones aren’t typically roasted for stock, though there’s no reason you shouldn’t try it.

On veal stock—if you’re having trouble finding bones, ask your meat department for a veal breast, which has both meat and lots of connective tissue and is reasonably priced—have them cut it into pieces for stock.

Chlorinated water: Chlorine does dissipate quickly (which  is why dogs drink out of toilets—they don't like the fresh chlorinated stuff in their bowl).  In my opinion, tap water should always be used for stock unless it's unpleasant to drink.

Is a turnip an aromat?  What an interesting question.  I'm with Dervin, if a turnip and a green pepper can be considered aromats, than ANYTHING can be, and the word ceases to have meaning.  When do we ever add a green pepper to sauce intending to strain it out after it's imparted its "aromatic" effect.  Perhaps that should be part of the definition, a veg or herb that we intend to remove before it's ultimately served. 

Comments

[stephanie]

Inspired by your book, and a recent chicken carcass, I made chicken stock this weekend. I really found a difference in my end result by not adding the aromats until the last hour of cooking (I'd previously used Joy of Cooking's recipe which calls for these items after 30 minutes.)

I added fresh Sage and Rosemary along with the mirepox, fresh thyme, bay leaf and peppercorns (lemon-pepper) and loved the end result!

[Greg Turner]

So, your book's on my Christmas list, most certainly. And this blog just made it to my regular links list. As a mostly self-taught cook, this is the type of thing I've been waiting for. Recipes are great, sure, but I've been striving to find and remember the fundamentals of cooking upon which recipes are built. It seems that fundamentals, not a recipe library, are the real key to kitchen creativity.

[Sandy]

What a fitting starter topic. :)

I have playing with aromatics a lot recently. I use them all the time in healthy cooking where I wish to replace fat with flavor. Sometimes, without the fat to mellow and smooth, these flavors come across differently -- especially celery and bay leaf. I dislike bitter tastes and sometimes these can tip the flavor into areas I am not personally fond of.

I also am inspired and have my chicken carcass to torture into a fine broth over the weekend.

[JoP in Omaha]

Awesome! I easily spotted the link to this blog on the other blog. This is a beautiful page. I love it. The direction you want to take this blog is awesome....

And right off the bat, I have a question:
Above you say: "You can even save that can of hopeless Swanson’s chicken broth ....(though better to start with water)." And you present this view in "Elements...", as well, in the essay about sauce: page 15, "Water is certainly superior to canned broths."

Do you believe water is preferred over commercial broth for soup bases, as well? I found a commercial organic broth that contains these ingredients: organic chicken broth (filtered water, organic free-range chicken), organic celery, organic onion, organic carrots, non-GMO soy protein-based natural flavor, organic spices, and sea salt. Your choice still would be water as a base instead of this?

[Neal L.]

I was very excited when I saw this blog. I really love cooking, but have no training formal or informal. This is a fantastic idea for those of us who hunger for knowledge and won't get "Elements of Cooking" until Christmas. Baby Jesus will reward you Michael Ruhlman.

[Rebecca]

Since I'm an impoverished grad student and trying to be as frugal as possible while still eating well, I've started keeping a bag in the freezer for bitter aromatics (aka celery substitutes) such as stems from greens like parsley and arugula, pea pods and the tough parts of pea shoots, etc. This means one less item to buy when I'm making stock, and I almost never use celery anymore.

[JoP in Omaha]

On further thought, as you say, remember the aromats. A vegetable stock could be made while prepping other ingredients needed for the dish. It would be better choice than water. Ok. I got it. Remember to use the aromats!

[tyronebcookin]

Just received your new book, have loved all your other chef/cooking books and I am looking forward to this blog format of elements...you never disappoint.

Thank you,

...cook, chef, culinary sponge, traveler, volunteer, missionary.
tyronebcookin

[Alexa Wing]

I've been reading your blog for about six months like some kind of out there cult religion and am pleased as punch that there is a new blog to rave over! I am not a skilled cook, but have been making chicken stock for years mainly because the use of it; and of it's brother demi-glace, makes people think I am a genius in the kitchen. Mirepoix has saved my bacon many a time...and I thank Anthony Bourdain and his Kitchen Confidential for that wonderful demi-glace recipe. I'm hoping to get your book for Christmas, at least I'm strongly nudging my husband in that direction. Cheers!

[Joann C.]

Micheal, I'm very excited about this new blog! I've been a huge fan of your writing for a few years now and enjoy reading your other blog.

I have a question about green peppers not being considered an aromatic. In Cajun cooking and or is it Creole isn't the "Holy Trinity" consisted of green peppers, onions, and celery used as their base of a mirepoix? I'm confused.

[carri]

moving from the other blog with the firey red masthead and many things requiring attention , to this one with its calm blue swooshes and amazingly wonderful lack of visual clutter is like walking away from the hot oven and clatter of the kitchen and stepping out the backdoor to feel the breeze and catch the sun coming up. Thank you for giving us so many ways to get our food blog on! as for mirepoix...serving at least 3 soups a day (it goes good with bread) where would I ever be without this menage a trios! I'll save my soup as a metaphor for life line for another time...rock on, mr ruhlman! Have fun in Tennessee!

[Mingus Rude]

Michael, this is a great idea for a blog (and book)! You've really put your finger on what is missing in the culinary bogosphere -- a focus on the fundamentals. I too am interested in not needing recipes, and I am making that my goal as a cook. That said, I have a couple questions:

1. Can you recommend any DVDs/videos that cover the fundamentals well?

2. Any chance you'll extend the book tour and come to Chicago?

Thanks!
MR

[kevin]

Michael,
You specifically mention that bell pepper isn't an aromat, and yet in cajun/creole cuisine it is certainly used as such -- part of the "holy trinity" of onion, celery, and pepper and the base for gumbo, jamabalaya, and numerous other dishes. Thoughts?

[ruhlman]

First sorry for the jarring design switches. i was starting to get used to the blue too! but i think it's important to remain consistent. still ironing things out though.

Comments/answers: adding aromats late is important, they need only 30-45 min to do their stuff then they begin to fragment and can contribute overcooked notes to the stock instead of freshness.

i'd have to taste the organic to know if i'd still choose water over it. but, even though it's organic, it's still processed and boxed--and stock is all about freshness, stock is very volatile.

green peppers aren't armoatic, but they have a distinctive flavor that they add to so many cajun dishes, so they can, loosely, be called cajun mirepoix (even though strictly speaking, they're not an aromatic veg).

[Connor]

Michael: I've always wondered if there's real value in using bouquet garni (bound with leek leaves, butcher twine, etc.) instead of simply throwing the herbs into the pot? I know it makes for easy removal but is there another reason for taking this extra step?

[ruhlman]

no need to tie ingredients if you're going to strain anyway.

and no i don't know of any dvd's--i should make one!

[Connor]

Oh, and I should add that I'm thrilled about this new blog! What a great idea!

[Doodad]

Alright, more to explore on the new website.

What about fennel? And why does it not appear in more mirepoix type settings? Too strong or one dimensional?

[jeana]

In my quest to become a better cook I have gotten to the point where I always keep said aromatics on hand. My vegetable bin always has carrots and celery, my pantry constantly has onions and garlic, and I grow my own thyme, bay leaves and parsley. It makes life easier when you want to whip up something last minute, as a combination of some or all of these ingredients is almost always called for.

I'm glad you mentioned the bouquet garni thing - many a recipe calls for tying up these little bundles when you strain the whole pot anyway. Julia Child could have saved herself a step or two.

In a funny aside, my husband used to think it was mire-quoi. Mire-WHAT?

[Robert]

I think the new blog is a great idea and can't wait to keep reading it. Aromatics is also a great way to open it up. Hope your haveing fun on the book tour!

[Darcie]

Just stumbled over to the new blog and I am so glad you have created it. As I started Elements yesterday I was hoping you would have a blog devoted to it!

As far as celery and bitterness, have you used lovage and how would you compare it? I have a luscious large lovage plant (can you tell I adore alliteration?) growing in my yard and have occasionally substituted it for celery as a flavoring component (it's too woody to eat). I think it has a brighter, cleaner flavor than celery.

Carry on, and thanks for the new blog!

[Bob delGrosso]

Kevin
I had the same reaction as you to Ruhlman's contention that bell pepper is not an aromat. But then I realized that the term is French and that Ruhlman's "Elements" is based mostly on French classical cuisine where it is certainly not used as an aromat.

Come to think of it, it's hardly used at all and certainly not a part of any fond de la cuisine (a fond is a preparation, ingredient, technique or idea that is used in numerous applications and situations)in classical cooking. I think it is used quite a bit in provencal cooking but not much at all in international style that Ruhlman writes to in "Elements."

[Frances Davey]

We made a wonderful chicken stock on Monday. It was a collaborative effort, and thank goodness. He kept pulling stuff out of the crisper drawer,"How about this? How about this?" I had to explain to Boh (my husband) why cabbage and broccoli are NOT aromats. I didn't have to read Elements to figure that one out either. I kind of think fennel might fall along the same lines? It seems like it would overpower the stock.

[Frances Davey]

Well, aside from my bad cut and paste editing, I forgot to mention that your essay in Elements was the inspiration for the stock.

[Kansas City rube]

So in general, it would be better to use water over the organic chicken stock? Is this true for pretty much every purpose?

My mom and I will be so disappointed if this is true. I'm sure our purchases of organic chicken stock total in the hundreds or even thousands of dollars by now.

Thanks to "Elements," I am inspired to make homemade stock for the first time later today. I think I read somewhere that you shouldn't use a chicken carcass that has been brined for stock. Is this true?