Veal Stock and Remouillage

I’ve been shooting my mouth off a lot about the wonders of veal stock, in the new book, in Gourmet  magazine all the way back in 1999 (here’s the braised short ribs that featured the veal stock), and over this past weekend on The Splendid Table.  You can listen at their site, and here’s the recipe I gave them but I’m going to make it even more simple here.

My main points about the veal stock (photo by donna) are these: almost no one has written about the special qualities of veal stock since Richard Olney in the 70s and this is unfortunate. If there were one ingredient that the home cook could have that would transform absolutely his or her cooking, one that would put it close to the level of the professional chef, it’s veal stock.  This stock takes the flavors that are already present and, without inflicting its own flavors in braise or a stew or a sauce or a soup, elevates them.  It’s the selfless stock.  And last, it’s no more difficult to make than chicken stock.

Another thing about stock generally: don't think that stock making must be a huge undertaking.  I got an email the other day from a home cook saying she didn’t have the right pots to make stock.  Please, listen to me: YOU DO NOT HAVE TO MAKE ENORMOUS QUANTITIES AND MONOPOLIZE YOUR KITCHEN FOR AN ENTIRE WEEKEND IN ORDER TO HAVE STOCK.

Put two or three pounds of bones in a 2-quart pot, cover with water, bring it to a simmer, skim anything that looks unpleasant off the surface, and put it in the oven set to 190 degrees for as long as you wish, a few hours at least or for beef and veal 10 hours is good.  Add an onion, two carrots and a bay leaf for the last hour of cooking.  Strain (the finer the strainer, the better the stock—I strain through a cloth).  This will give you about a quart of stock.

For veal stock, see if you can find a veal breast, which has a great mix of bone, cartilage and meat (I know some people have trouble finding bones—if you’re not worried about cost, osso bucco works).  Ask your butcher to cut it into 3 inch pieces for stock (I use a cleaver which does the same work).  Roast them in a 425 degree oven until they are beautifully golden brown and delicious looking.  Then follow the above instructions.  Also add a couple tablespoons of tomato paste and some garlic.  Other aromats that are great to use here and in other stocks are leeks, peppercorns (crack them first), parsley and thyme.

Use this stock to braise anything from short ribs to lamb shank to duck legs, add it to sautéed mushrooms and shallots for a delicious mushroom sauce, add it to the pan you’ve roasted a chicken with some chopped onion and carrot and some Dijon mustard in for an
amazing chicken sauce.  Truly the stuff is a miracle, one of the fundamental elements of cooking that few home cooks seem to know about or make use of.

And I would be remiss for not including this Element here:

Remouillage: A second stock made from bones that have been used once for a primary stock in order to make complete use of the bones.  It’s a weaker stock, of course, and is often added to the primary stock and reduced.

It’s a very effective way of increasing the yield of stock from your valuable veal bones, worth the extra effort.  Why it works, I don't know--perhaps the cooling and reheating of the bones?—but it really does work.

Comments

[Paul DeLuca]

Based on the praises you've sung regarding veal stock, it was the next stock I wanted to make, so I went out this weekend looking for veal bones to make some. Couldn't find any at what I thought were high-end markets, so it's off to the butcher shop or the West Side Market next. I did get a nice roaster chicken to replenish my chicken stock supply.

I like the idea of making small batches, too. For me, storage is managed most easily by freezing my stock in ice cube trays, then double bagging them in zip top freezer bags.

[Alanna]

You sounded great on the Splendid Table - and after all these years of throwing the vegetables in with the chicken carcass, I'm going to take your advice and add them LATER. Duh! It just makes sense that so much of the flavor gets sucked up by the vegetables which are then thrown onto the compost pile. What a waste. Next up, something other than chicken stock.

[NancyH]

Please pass this comment to Donna - what an extraordinary photo! That photo makes me want to drop what I'm doing at the office and run home this instant to make veal stock - and I just might.

[Connor]

I agree with Nancy -- I want to run home now to make veal stock based on that picture alone!

Last weekend, in a pinch, I bought D'Artagnan's duck and veal demi-glace to use in beef carbonnade. It was quite good, actually, and definitely something I'll use again when I don't have stock on hand.

[Darcie]

That photo does it. I will make veal stock soon, even if I have to steal a calf from the farm up the road to get the veal.

Kidding, folks, just kidding. But that photo is inspiring!

[Samuel Fromartz]

Can you make a remouillage with chicken stock as well. I make the stock using a whole chicken usually and save the meat. But wonder if I should just take the whole thing and make another batch of stock?

[French Laundry at Home]

Bravo Donna!!! Talk about a picture painting a thousand words....

[PeterG]

Long time lurker, long time fan and I just *had* to comment on this.

I received your 'Elements of Cooking' book as an Xmas gift and finally got started on it this last weekend. I literally cheered out loud on your passion for veal stock! Yes, I agree 100%!

While I really do not have a proper stock pot (yet), I make my veal stock in the Crock Pot and it comes out great! No, I take that back, it comes out LUXURIOUS.

I simply roast the veal bones (I'm lucky, my local market regularly has meaty neck bones already cut into 2-3" chunks) in a roasting pan for 30 mins then remove to the Crock Pot and cover with water. Then I roast the aromats in the same pan for about 30 mins (or until GB&D) and set them aside. I run the Crock Pot on low for ~10 hours and then add the roasted veggies, bay leaf, cracked pepper, etc. for the last 1-2 hours. I then store pre-measured stock in the freezer and use it as needed.

Perhaps a Crock Pot is not the most ideal tool to make stock, but it could not be easier and it works great! Anyone with a Crock Pot has time to do this over a weekend day, no excuses in my book.

Last evening I made braised lamb shanks with carrots, parsnips and pearl onions in the Crock Pot with the veal stock and it was delicious.

I'm with you on this one. Amen!

[Bob delGrosso]

Through most of my career cooking in restaurants I made veal stock on sometimes a daily, but typically, twice-weekly basis. All of it was reduced to demi-glace or glace, and used to as a base for sauces or (in the case of glace) a glaze for roasts and grillades or as an accent in for example, a bowl of risotto.
But I overused it, and in my characteristically reactionary fashion, stopped making it once I moved from the professional kitchen. Nowadays, I try to build sauces from the fond of the dish being cooked.(Like your pork shoulder example on your main blog page.) This is a bit more challenging than dosing dishes with demi-glace but I'll tell you what: I miss the stuff when I read you write about it.

[JoP in Omaha]

To all the reluctant stock makers out there:

I confess. I'm the one who told Ruhlman I don't have have pots or space to make stock. I was wrong. The planets and stars lined up on Saturday, and I made not one, but three chicken stocks. A white one (throw it all in a pot and let it simmer) and two stocks using different methods of roasting the chicken parts first (stove top and oven). I haven't made stock before, so I wanted to see the difference among these.

It's true. Making stock doesn't take a huge pot, and it doesn't take a lot of time. It's easy. It's fun. And most importantly, it's GOOD. So, I urge you, follow my example and give it a try. Really, it's not difficult or time consuming. You'll be so proud of yourself when you taste your wonderful stock.

Veal stock will be next when I can get my hands on veal bones. The search is on.

I, too, love Donna's photos. They're gorgeous.

[Dave Weinstein]

Last weekend, I made veal stock.

I used 10lbs of veal bones (from the looks, they were part of the knee, cut in half by the butcher), and made the stock as per Elements of Cooking.

The stock really didn't reduce that heavily, and as it was done it wasn't all that flavorful. I made most of it into a Demi-Glace using the directions from the Les Halles cookbook.

I ended up with 20 cubes of demi, and 6 4-6oz pucks of reduced veal stock (I reduced the remaining stock by half to get it to the gelled consistency and the flavor I was looking for).

Then I dredged some boneless lamb in applewood smoked sea salt, flour, and fresh pepper, and pan fried it, making a sauce with the pan drippings, shallots, marsala, and a cube of the demi-glass.

Next weekend, I'll probably make another batch (I have two more bags of 10lbs of veal bones in the freezer).

Right now, a mixed poultry stock is busy reducing into a demi-glace with some viognier and shallots, for cubing for chicken dishes.

[S. Woody]

I'm still wrapping my mind around making stock at all. My first attempt at beef stock made for a fantastic base for onion soup (my partner said it was "too beefy"!), with leftovers helping to braise a pot roast.

Reading "Elements" has given me pointers as to how I can improve my stock-making game. But I think I want to try another couple of beef stocks, and two or three chicken stocks, before tackling veal. Practice makes better, if not perfect at first. I don't want to waste those veal bones.

Talking with the butchers at the supermarket where I work, I've learned they do, indeed, have veal bones on hand. But the customer has to ask for them - they aren't on display in front, the way the marrow bones are. And I've noticed that most customers are very reluctant to ask for any kind of information (although they're grateful when the information is offered). The trick is in letting them know, somehow, that we're glad to share and glad to help.

Like learning how to make stock, being part of a retail staff involves a learning curve, and patience.

[bob mcgee]

I have to admit that I've moved away, with time from using veal stock. I've definitely become enamored with stripping down the amount of elements that I add to a dish. Complexity of flavor, for me, was something to strive for in a restaurant kitchen.
Seriously, Michael, Donna's picture brought back all the emotion and aromas that I needed to make a trip to the butcher before they close tonite.
And Bob D, Isn't it nice to think about making stock in less than 30 gallon batches?
And isn't it nice when you come in, in the morning and someone hasn't blown out your pilot light just to be a prankster?

[E]

Recently started making stock, and have found it to be quite adictive. Thanks to Ruhlman for helping me see the light. One tip I got from the chef at my favorite restaurant is that he uses ice instead of water to make his stock. I've utilized that with great results - really nice clear stock. Brilliant.

I get a bit nervous reducing my stocks that I've made. For some reason I'm concerned about "over-reducing". If I'm going to reduce a stock, what consistency or volume should I be stopping at? Is the idea behind reducing stock to produce a sauce-like product to be used as-is later, or is it more a matter of saving storage space, and then rehydrating when used? Or a combo of the two? Thanks for any thoughts.

[luis]

Veal? what's that? a quick check of Publix showed me that out of a whole wall of meats, chicken, fish, sausages and meat. there were exactly a line of three or four styro veal packs...no bones!. Look I have just begun to the search...but this is not goonna fall of tha tree and hit me in the forehead.

[Veron]

Cool! I was going to ask you this question about how big a stockpot did I need. I have 10 lbs. of meaty veal bones ready to go but realized I did not have a stockpot big enough for it.

[ntsc]

Try ethnic markets for bonier cuts including veal. The last time I was in the one near me they had literally hundreds of lbs of frozen beef back ribs, veal bones, and a whole frozen 100 lb piglet.

Piece of advice on stock pots, don't buy one you can't lift when full.

[S. Woody]

One reason for asking the butchers if they have veal bones in the back is because veal is a "politically incorrect" meat, in some customer's eyes, and therefor obscene. How dare we slaughter innocent young cowsies! (This may also relate to why Judi Rogers cannot find a decent source of veal bones in the San Francisco area, where political correctness outweighs everything.)

I'll ask the guys in our meat department if they've ever had complaints from customers about our having something on display, such as tongue and sweetbreads, something that might be considered bizarre and "unviewable" by the more squeemish customers (and they are out there). The answers might be amusing.

[Jeannie]

I have to admit I want the best of both worlds, I have your book and I realize that stock makes all the difference in flavor. However, I live in an apartment and don't have the time to let a pot sit for 8 hours. I realize u suggested using water, but I really want my stock! Are there any links or suggestions for say hour stocks that I can then freeze. And when u freeze it in an ice cube tray, what is the ratio of cubes to cups? And how long does it last for? Can u tell if it has gone bad? And I am not a big meat eater so I don't have extra bones or have I asked for bones but I can....For some reason stock just intimidates me but I still really appreciate the difference of the real thing versus alternatives...

[luis]

Jeannie the regulated source of heat I depend on for stock is the oven. It is safer specially when set on low..low-warm type setting. I use a thermometer to set the temp and also have a pizza stone in it to store the heat and maintain the temperature in the oven more even. After that I have no concern leaving it overnight. Remember the water in the pot is NOT supposed to reach the boiling point.

[Bob delGrosso]

bob mcGee
Never mind about blown out pilot lights, have I ever got one for you.

How about coming in the the morning and finding that the guy who you left in charge of turning down the flame on the 40 gal stock pot FORGOT to do it and finding a pot full of smoking bones and stalactites of melted aluminum dripping from the burner?

[SwillMonkey]

In today's prepackaged world, finding veal bones can be tough, but they can be ordered. The winery where I work, our chef makes it on a weekly schedule, orders the bones from our meat supplier.

The best recipe I have come up with for veal stock is to give the chef nice bottle of vino. I got 2 gallons of stock out of it!

[bonnibella]

Ruhlman, does Donna have any "coffee table books" published yet of her cooking photos? If not, could you please get her started on this? Thank you. :-)

[CaptainK]

@ Jeannie: Your comment made me think. I have been making stock for a while now and just freezing it in 4 cup, screw-lid containers. Since I mostly use it for soups, this worked fine.

But recently I need just a little stock so I had to thaw out the big container, use one cup, and then re-freeze it. So, being a faithful reader, I decided to freeze "most" of it in my containers and then some in the ice cube trays and store in baggies. After reading your comment, I tried an experiment and found that (in my ice cube trays, anyway) four cubes was just about 1/2 cup when thawed.

[Scott Johnston]

I am making my first attempt at housemade beef stock today. To start I have placed 7 pounds of beef bones (cut into 2-3 inch pieces) in a roasting pan with 2 large red onions, 1 pound of carrots, 10 medium stalks of celery( all veggies roughly chopped), and tossed all in little oil and fresh ground pepper into a 400 degree oven for two hours. Next I added 7 qts of water (1 per pound of bones) to a large pot. I added the roasted bones and some liquid from deglazed the roasting pan (veggies are reserved) to the stock pot and put it (not covered) in a 190 degree oven for 10 hours. I plan on adding the roasted veggies, some parsley, pepper, and a few other items for the last 1 1/2 hours of cooking. (all this is ala M. Ruhlman's suggestions). I will then strain the stock through cheesecloth.

Q1) I took out 10 oz of fat from the roasting pan that I put into a tin to throw. Should I have added this to the stock pot? Would it have added any additional flavor? Yes, I realize that I could skim this off after the stock has been refrigerated.

Q2) Should I have roasted the veggies this long? The veggies look wonderful, but perhaps a little more cooked than I want. Can I mix additional fresh veggies with the roasted ones for more flavor?

Q3) Are the bones spent at the end of this time? Would a second stock (which would be weaker) really be worth it?(Remouillage: A second stock made from bones that have been used once for a primary stock in order to make complete use of the bones. It’s a weaker stock, of course, and is often added to the primary stock and reduced., M Ruhlman).

Q4) Any other questions I should be asking?

[Patrick R]

I'm also a stock noob. I made my first beef stock a few weeks ago, following the principles in "Elements." I only had 2 pounds of bones to work with and they were not fantastic parts, but I soldiered on and in the end I got something better than I had any right to expect, considering the iffy bones. There is another farmer at the local market who has much more suitable bones, so I will try to snag some of those next time.

Also, my stove kind of sucks and the internal temperature is unreliable, so mine stayed on the stove top with a thermometer in it. Straining through cheesecloth works wonderfully! It was light and clear and beautiful. I made an onion soup with it and used the rest for a few miscellaneous dishes.

[Sherlock75]

This is probably a silly question. When you say "put it in the oven set to 190 degrees for as long as you wish," is that covered or uncovered? When I make stock on the stovetop, I always keep it partially covered, and add more water as needed. Is this not needed when making stock in the oven?

[ruhlman]

uncovered. otherwise it can get too hot, and this provides the right amount of reduction.