Last post on the astonishing versatility of five parts flour, three parts water.  First it was pizza (remember this awesome pizza?… hmm, maybe a bacon and egg pizza this weekend).  More recently, I made these delicious pretzels.  Same dough, different products. And here it is in yet another form. Every now and then, when I or Donna stop at On the Rise bakery, where Adam Gidlow and staff bake bread, bread, bread—the best baguette in the land, as far as I’m concerned—we pick up a loaf of sandwich bread, which young James calls “the most awesome bread ever.” Last time I was there, jealous of the light airy crust and soft kid-friendly texture, I asked Adam, “What makes it sandwich bread?” He said, “It’s the exact same dough as the baguette, but a longer ferment.  Read On »

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Faithful readers, cooks, strangers, welcome to the new design! I wanted Donna’s photography to stand out so we toned down all the color (above, I was dicing onion week before last for an easy, midweek coq au vin preparation— love the light she got on that onion!). I also hope to bring in new readers, so I made the social media prominent on the right and will be sending out a newsletter to those who are interested in additional material. I hope the blog will be easier to read, have a more consistent in look, with no more Kraft salad dressing ads in the left column next to the post!  There will be more smaller changes in the future, but this is the big one, master minded by designer Joe Watson (thanks Joe!) and engineered Read On »

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At a reader’s request I’m reposting on how to make perfect stock, by slow cooking it in the oven.  It’s a very low-maintenance, easy way to make stock—just stick it in a low oven and forget about it. I’d meant to post on Friday but the weekend has gotten away from me, and now most people have either discarded their carcass (sadly) or put it to use.  But there may be a carcass or two hanging around.  Also, since this method works with a chicken carcass as well, any time of the year, and because Pierre sent me two turkey illustrations, better late than never! (Pierre has just published a funny, fun, thoroughly unique cookbook, called Kitchen Scraps: A Humorous Illustrated Cookbook.  Congrats Pierre, excellent work!) Turkey Stock: Oven Method Put all the turkey bones Read On »

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I’ll never forget the way the words rang in my head, what, four or five years ago, Judy Rodgers, chef of Zuni Cafe in SF: why is this the beginning of the eating season, she asked, why isn’t this a holiday about cherishing our food, about saving it, about putting it up before winter so we don’t starve, about sharing it?  Thanksgiving should be about being with people we care about, about paying attention to what we have so that we don’t waste it, so that we make more of it, so that everyone has it. So as I spend a happy day in the kitchen, I’ll be thinking about the time I live in, a time of unprecedented thoughtfulness about food and where our food comes from.  It’s a lucky time to be a Read On »

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I wrote this very same thing last year: for delicious turkey gravy on Thursday, make a quart of rich turkey stock today or tomorrow. Here’s what my plan is.  I’m roasting a chicken for dinner and I’ll also throw into the oven two fat turkey wings  and cook them till they look delicious enough to eat.  I’ll put them in a pan and cover them with water (I may add the chicken carcass—haven’t decided yet.  The wings I bought weigh about 3 pounds (and cost less than $4).  I’ll pour in at least that much water, probably more, enough to cover them by about an inch of water in a snug pan.  I’ll bring the water to a simmer, then put the pan uncovered in the oven set low, 180 degrees or so, overnight.  They Read On »

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