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April 2008

Yellow

April 28, 2008

Yolk                                                                                                               Photo by none other than Donna
In huge and enthusiastic support of Barbara and her Taste of Yellow 2008, and the Lance Armstrong Foundation and Livestrong Day.

Recent Comments
12:10:47 PM by Russ: Greetings Michael: An off the subject question. Im taking an ACF kitchen practical soon and am confused by advice for a certain part. What IS the pr...
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My Favorite Kitchen "Gadgets"

April 27, 2008

Thanks for all those great comments on using or not using scales.  It’s a hopeful trend.  It got me thinking about useful kitchen tools, just as Ed Charles, Australian journalist and blogger, has been inspired by The Elements of Cooking to consider his own kitchen and not what is useful but what isn’t and asks people to name their least useful kitchen tool.Piemakerwpm118_2

I’m not the first to suggest that a tool that has only a single use is just as useful in the garbage as it is in your drawer.  A mango slicer, please.  An egg separater—Jesus, an egg separator!  We are born with the perfect egg separators, right at the end of our arms!  Why would anyone be moved to invent one? Sarah on Ed’s blog said her “pie maker” was the most useless thing in her kitchen.  Another commented that they love their pie maker.  What is a pie maker?!  I’ve never heard of a pie maker.  I use my egg separators to make pies! (Google search: sunbeam pie maker, at right.)

I was sure I had some useless crap stored in a box in the basement but no—I don’t have a single useless gadget any more.  I even threw out those ridiculous corn cob shaped corn holders my mother puts in my Christmas stocking every year.  I only have practical gadgets, so I took a picture of them.  Were I forbidden to use any one of them, I would be cranky indeed.  Were I to go stage in a kitchen, I’d feel pretty confident that if I had these items, I could get just about anything I needed done.

P1040440                                                                                                                         Photo NOT by Donna
My favorite kitchen gadgets:
From right to left, big knife and little knife, rubber spatula, wood spoon with flat edge, fish spatula, microplane, instant read thermometer, Sharpie, sauce whip, string, fine mesh strainer, two spoons, measuring spoons, peeler, heavy side towel for grabbing hot things, and, the most important tool in the kitchen, kosher salt.

Comments welcome: be brief: single most valuable and single least valuable kitchen gadget.

post script 4/30: many people have noted their affection for tongs and wondered how this tool could not be pictured here. I have one good sturdy set of tongs that hang from the bar to the left of the hood and i use them all the time. But i don't think they should be considered an essential kitchen tool. I know most cooks will disagree and I understand why.

Recent Comments
11:52:03 AM by Mary Bowman: Here is a free gadget that can make out of season strawberries pretty decent. Take a drink straw and poke the tastless white core from the center of ...
205 Responses

Elements of Cooking: Scale, Scaling

April 22, 2008

R10_0019                                                                                                                                    Photo by Donna
Scale (noun):  A good digital scale is an important kitchen tool because it provides the most accurate way of measuring ingredients, which is especially critical in baking.  A tablespoon of different brands of salt have different weights but an ounce of salt will have the same impact no matter the type or brand.  Flour and other finely powdered ingredients measured by the dry cup can vary in weight as well.  A scale is recommended for any serious kitchen.

Scale (verb): To scale means to weigh—for example, “Scale that dough into 10 ounce portions for small baguettes.”

This scale is one of the most important tools in my kitchen.  It not only ensures constency, it makes putting together ingredients simple.  You know how much easier it is to measure 8 ounces of shortening as compared to one cup?  Here, I'm measuring ingredients for bread dough that I've been making a lot of recently.  If I were making cookies, I could put the shortening or butter right in there with the flour.  I was corresponding recently with a cook who weighed a cup of his flour and it was 3 ounces.  A cup of flour can weigh as much as 6 ounces.  If he measured four cups and I measured four cups, I'd have twice as much flour in my bowl.

But I don't know how much a part a scale is of the home kitchen. Many of the people who read this blog are serious home cooks.  I'm working on a book now that relies a lot on the weight of ingredients, and I'm very curious to know what people who care about cooking think about scales.  Do you own one?  Why or why not.  Do you use it?  If so how?  If not why not?  I suspect a lot of it is because almost all the cookbooks out there use volume measurements so you don't need one.  Here's the scale I use.  But there are lots to choose from and start at about $25.  Key attributes are digital, measures in grams and ounces, and can measure at least 5 pounds or so.

Recent Comments
04:17:46 PM by DavidinSF: Try the KD8000 model of this same brand (MyWeigh) it converts to a % method of weigh for baking which is much preferred....
120 Responses

Blymire's Veal Stock

April 21, 2008

Carole Blymire, the force behind the French Laundry at Home blog, tackles French Laundry veal stock.  I have, of course, professed my devotion to this nectar of the cooking gods, and am delighted to see someone else write about it so well (notice the excellent ice bath to cool the stock quickly).  I'm sure most of the readers here are aware of FL at Home, but if you aren't, well worth checking out on a regular basis.

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12:44:22 PM by Pulled pork: I found the recipe on your blog with cover info. Please disregard previous posting question....
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Carbonara

April 19, 2008

Carbonara                                                                                                                         Photo by Donna T. Ruhlman
After posting a gorgeous fatty piece of cured mangalitsa belly I thought I should say how it first went to use.  The other day I asked Donna to have lunch—one of the true pleasures of working from home.  The house is clean and doesn't thrum with kid energy but most important, we're not exhausted as we would be if we waited till the end of the day, so we can actually talk to one another about  things that matter to us, reflectively and leisurely.  I don't want to spend more than 20 minutes or so actually cooking--a spinach salad with lardons, warm bacon fat and shallot dressing with a poached egg, or the above carbonara, which Donna clicked off before we sat down (she'd been shooting custards for me all morning so she was all set up). Carbonara is perhaps my favorite pasta, yet another variation of the bacon-and-eggs pairing, the simpler the better--don't be snobby about the bacon cut ("Guanciale is the ONLY kind we use," etc.--good smoked bacon is excellent) and keep the frills like peas out of it.  I think the only truly critical point is that you must use freshly grated reggiano.  The fat is the pleasure in this mangalista bacon, so I wanted to use it all, tossing the strips of belly and all the rendered fat with the hot pasta, pouring the cream-yolk mixture over the hot pasta which lightly cooks the sauce, tossing in some freshly grated reggiano, and finishing with chopped flat-leaf parsley.  Serve it with a crusty baguette and a big zinfandel. Any couples out there with kids I cannot recommend highly enough having lunch with your partner, in your home, in the middle of the week, on a regular basis.

Recent Comments
10:09:26 AM by The Gobbler: Dearie me Im late to the Carbonara party! Cold night tonight, fire blazing carbonaras on the menu! My desert Island dish. I bloggged it on Jan 1 this...
73 Responses

Best Foie Gras Ever?

April 17, 2008

Eduardo Sousa, a farmer in the Extremadura region of Spain is, according to chef Dan Barber, raising geese that bear the best foie gras the chef's tasted.  The critical part of the story, though, is that Sousa does not force feed the geese.  He apparently lets their inclination to gorge themselves, once required for migration, take care of the fattening and simply makes sure they have all they want—nuts, olives, etc., but no corn.  This suggests of course that farmers who force feed their geese and ducks are simply controlling what the ducks would do naturally and that the folks who want to prohibit the production and sale of foie gras on the grounds of animal cruelty have one less leg to stand on.
    I never thought they had any leg to stand on if they argued only that the practice of gavage were inhumane but were happy to buy boneless skinless chicken breast and beef tenderloin from America’s meat factories.  The foie gras farms in the United States, notably Hudson Valley Foie Gras, tend to be models of humane, safe, small-scale farming. Here’s Bourdain’s excellent account of the no rez trip to the farm.
    But Barber’s story (first reported last week in Lancaster Farming and which I read via A Hunger Artist), is a good one nevertheless.  Barber said this foie gras was the best he’d ever eaten and that the experience was revelatory, “the best culinary experience of my life.”  Repeat: the best culinary experience of his life.  Are we likely to taste any of this at Blue Hill anytime soon?  Not likely.  When Barber asked about buying Sousa’s foie gras, Sousa, clearly a quirky farmer, replied, “Chef’s don’t deserve it.”
    So enough with chefs banning foie from their meat-filled menus (clearly a marketing-driven decision, at best--and nothing wrong with that, but let's call it what it is), and enough with city counsel grandstanding and the like to legislate its ban (most recently defeated in Maryland).  And thanks Dan Barber for another great story.

(Skawt's comment reminded me of this hilarious exercise in human discomfort and stupidity. thanks again to delgrosso.)

UPDATE: credit due
Dan Barber’s story was a originally part of broader talk last month at NYU’s Experimental Cuisine Collective on the connection between flavor and animal welfare, namely the idea that the better an animal is treated during its life and the less stress it endures at slaughter, the better the flavor it will have, a common sensical idea that may be impossible to prove.  The Sousa story was one of his examples.  Katherine Hobson wrote about Barber's talk in a US News & World Report blog and Joseph Erdos wrote about it on his blog.

Recent Comments
05:10:46 PM by Wilmita: Faust, Archer Daniels Midland and Monsanto....
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Elements of Cooking: Cure

April 14, 2008

Anz_0108                                                                                                           Photo by Donna T. Ruhlman
Cure: 1) To cure means to preserve.  Almost always, it’s salt that cures food, often followed by a secondary treatment, such as cooking (bacon, usually hot smoked) or drying (salt cod, prosciutto).  2): The salt mixture* used to cure meats, which can contain sodium nitrite, sugar, and other seasonings. Cures can be dry (salt and seasonings) or wet (also called a brine).  A “dry cure” should not be confused with dry curing, which indicates that a food has been cured with salt and then hung to dry in order to preserve it.
                                                --  From
The Elements of Cooking

Curing your own meats (which is no more difficult than marinating a steak) is one of the cook's greatest tools, capable of elevating inexpensive cuts to new levels of flavor and texture.  We don't need curing know-how in order to stay alive as we once did, but we still use these techniques for the extraordinary flavors and textures they create.  When Heath Putnam generously sent me a sample of mangalista hog belly (above), I immediately wanted to cure it to give it great flavor and to take advantage of it’s extraordinary fat.  Notice the gorgeous layering of fat and meat .  This belly was liberally coated in a basic dry cure (2 parts salt, one part sugar, and some pink salt*), put in a plastic bag with some thyme, smashed garlic, crushed bay leaf, brown sugar, nutmeg, cracked black peppercorns, and refrigerated for a week.  I then cooked it in a 200 degree oven to 150 degrees internal temperature.  The nitrite in curing salt is responsible for keeping the meat pink, gives it its distinctly piquant, bacony flavor (and also prevents botulism, should I have chosen to smoke it, an excellent option; I could also have let it dry cure for a week or two, hanging it from a pot-hook in my food snob kitchen to intensify and enhance  the flavor, but I was too hungry and eager to taste it).

The fat is exquisite, really picks up the flavors of the cure, and is the true pleasure of this amazing cut of the mangalista.  The knees go a bit wobbly from pleasure.

*Pink salt, or curing salt, is a salt containing a small amount of nitrite; it’s generically called pink salt because it’s dyed pink to prevent accidental consumption, and is sold under various brand names.  Potassium nitrate, saltpeter, was used for dry-cured sausages but has been replaced by sodium nitrite and sodium nitrate (the latter is for dry-cured sausages) because of their consistency and reliability.  I buy mine from butcher-packer.com for a buck-fifty, which will last me more than a year.  (See my book Charcuterie for the basic dry-cure and other curing recipes.)

Recent Comments
07:57:08 AM by ben: as a followup to my previous comment about my pork belly turning green. It didnt prevent me from trying again and it was incredible this time. I did...
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Notes 4/10/08

April 10, 2008

Snob Appeal? First it was Monica Eng calling me a food snob.  Now it's David Kamp, an expert in food snobbery, over at grub street.  How come writers can be food snobs but not chefs?  Ain't fair.

Some stories I liked recently, a welcome acknowledgment that French food done well will never be out of fashion and increasing evidence of the reality of the dire situation our oceans are in, both from the nytimes. And from the latimes, a review of new Vegas restaurants, which will save me a trip to what is surely hell on earth, and the return of gin cocktails (my new favorite is Hendrick's, from Scotland, it's fantastic).

Woolly pigs move to the Bay Area!  Thanks to Heath Putnam for bringing them to the States and farmer Kylan Hoover who bought a batch of piglets to raise (and to the power of the blog to connect.)  Said Kylan in an email, "Currently am raising the hogs free to range and feed on mast and supplemental barley, as per Heath and his Austrian friends standards.  Although they do not have access to acorns, as I do.  We hope to make a limited number of hogs available this spring, but primarily plan to sell in the late fall after the acorn season comes to a close."  Any interested chefs, Kylan can be reached at kylanhoover@gmail.com.  Heath sent me soeme extraordinary which I've got on the cure now--incredible layering of fat.   Story on Heath in the Seattle paper.

All hail the pig!

And this just in: Fantastic cooks story by Shuna, about Eric Ziebold, now chef of CityZen, and The French Laundry.

Recent Comments
08:34:35 AM by fala: Hendricks is AMAZING gin, cant believe it took you so long to find it! ...
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Question for Cooks in the U.S.

April 07, 2008

I've been asked by a prominent cooking magazine to identify upcoming food trends.  I've talked with chefs and other food professionals to get their ideas but I thought I'd throw the question out to any readers of this blog who have strong feelings about what's on the horizon in the home kitchen.  It might be an ingredient, chipotle powder, or a preparation, arancini, say, or chimichurri sauce.  Any food prognosticators out there, please feel free to make suggestions.  Thanks.

UPDATE:  Thank you all who took the time to comment.  I'm grateful for your help!

Recent Comments
08:49:00 PM by Fala: Im totally late for this but, Id like to see more people go for wild foods that are harvested by those in the know who will not do damage to the eniro...
208 Responses

New Publishing Model May Result in More Innovative Cookbooks

April 04, 2008

Kitchenaction07_0830                                                                                                                                Photo by Lara Kastner
Interesting, but in my opinion, inevitable, news in the publishing world: HarperCollins is forming a publishing group that will introduce a new model that establishes a different relationship between author and publisher.  Traditionally, a publisher offers an author an advance against future royalties; this, theoretically, allows the author to finance the project, to spend the time writing or creating the book.  When the book is published the author’s share of the proceeds equals 10-15% of the jacket price of the book for each book sold.  My publisher, Scribner, has been very generous to me regarding The Elements of Cooking and the new cookbook I’m finishing now.  Without these advances, I’d wouldn’t have been able to write the book. But that means I’ll have to sell a lot of copies in order for the book to earn out—that is, make back that advance at about $3 per book. 

What this new group intends to do is to get rid of the advance but give the author a greater share of the profits.  The headline in the NYTimes, where I read the story, slants the news somewhat, implying that the publisher is trying to take something away from the author.  But, in fact, the new arrangement could also allow the author to sell fewer books, yet make the same amount of money in the end, or by selling the same number of books, the author might make as much as three times the amount he or she would have received given the old model.  But: the author would have to finance the work and he or she could suffer if the book didn’t sell.  If my books don’t sell, I still get to keep the advance (and Scribner, which would bear the loss, won't be so friendly the next time I come around with a book idea).

The new model intended by HarperCollins has already begun to happen in the cookbook world and we may see how successful it is next fall.  Nick Kokonas, the restaurateur who, with Grant Achatz has created the restaurant Alinea in Chicago (pictured above), was unhappy with the conventional deals publishers were offering Grant for his cookbook. Kokonas figured, given that they have an in-house designer and photographer, they could do it themselves. They have hired several writers to handle various aspects of the text (myself included—I’m doing the intro and I also comment on the essays Nick and Grant are writing).  The Alinea Cookbook is scheduled for a fall publication, and they are creating an intriguing website with demos and recipes and techinques to go with it.

The only thing Alinea can’t do is warehouse and distribute tens of thousands of books of enormous books. So they’re working with 10 Speed Press to handle it for them, as well as provide some marketing and editing support; because it’s paying Alinea no advance (which in today’s economic climate would be in the low six figures), 10 Speed has very little at risk.  The risk falls on Kokonas and Achatz, and they stand to gain proportionately if the book does well—earning substantially more per book.  The publishing world is changing faster than most publishers are willing to acknowledge.  So far, the only response to the new dynamics has been for publishers to take on authors who have TV shows or some other “platform” resulting in a lot of books by television personalities and books promising fast, easy, low fat meals and eat-all-you-want diet books.

The new model created by Kokonas and perhaps soon a similar one by HarperCollins is exciting because it stands to enable chefs who can finance their own projects to do exactly the kind of books they want to do—which means we’re likely to see more risk taking and more innovative books, books that publishers in the traditional model previously wouldn’t have taken a chance on.

Update—Nick Kokonas expands on the numbers:

Ok.  Let's assume a $40 sale price on a visually intensive book.

Wholesale price is $20.  A normal retailer will then double that... but someone like Amazon or Costco, who still pay the $20, will discount the book significantly and might sell the book for $25.  In any event, it is rare that the publisher discounts the books to anyone but large bulk purchasers such as Book of the Month Club or something like that where they might buy 10,000 books in bulk that cannot be returned to the publisher.

From the $20 that the publisher collects, let's say (to keep numbers round) 10% of cover price goes to the author on the first xxx number of books sold... then it might go up from there to 15% or so.  These numbers vary by type of book, reputation of author, etc.  so $4.  Of course, the author doesn't get that money until he recoups the advance and typically will need to sell 20,000 or more books before that happens. 

Of the $16 remaining to the publisher, $5 or so will be the printing cost on the book.  Our book is costing significantly more than that to print because we have chosen to print it at the highest quality possible.  But my guess is that $5 or less is about right for a 250 page color hardbound book -- that is a conservative estimate and I am sure that many books cost less than half of that to print.

Of the $11 remaining, the rest of the costs are internal:  marketing, advertising, sales, etc.  I have no real way of knowing what sort of margins a publisher can pull from that.  One of the risks publishers run is that unsold books that sit on retail shelves can be returned to the publisher and the money refunded to the retailer.

Like the recording industry, the winners end up paying for the losers.  Publishers take on the risk of giving advances to many authors, and then need to market them all, but of course some will be net losers.  However, if you do the math, you can see that on a $60,000 advance, the book in our example only needs to sell 4,000 or so books to cover that ($15 per book is the divisor here because the author is not yet recouped, so we only need to subtract the printing cost).  Of course, the marketing and such are not included, so let's be generous and assume the number is really 6,000 books.  Still not that many. 

We were offered a nearly mid-six-figure amount as an advance, but once we took that money we needed to pay production costs out of it and we would immediately lose our intellectual property rights, including digital rights, for all of the material.  We would have no say in reprints, the ability to digitally sell or give-away material (my biggest concern personally), or even control fully the content of the book itself.  One well regarded publisher wanted us to call the book something other than "Alinea".  In addition, any books we would sell ourselves through the restaurant or at events or appearances would have to be purchased from the publisher at a slightly reduced wholesale rate.  That was the kicker for me... we produce it, repay the publisher their advance, and then have to buy our own books back from them.  Now, our only expense moving forward on the books we sell ourselves is the printing costs.  So we have a strong incentive to find a direct channel to consumers and I expect to sell about 5% of our books that way.

The bottom line, is that if you can afford to forgo the advance if you are a writer, or front the production cost of a visually intensive book (not an insubstantial figure), then you will very likely end up better off with a distribution only deal -- provided you can find one.  Judging from the news in the New York Times, I suspect that will be easier and easier to find.

Recent Comments
02:01:50 PM by Julie: Very interesting... Id be curious what the increased royalty rate is. It sounds to me exactly like a distribution arrangement - the author pays prod...
38 Responses

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  • Michael Ruhlman headshot

    I write about many subjects in magazines and newspapers, but mostly in books and mostly about food, chefs, and cooking—issues also covered in this blog.
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